We were very excited and knew we were in for a significantly different week to what we had at Heilala. We were welcomed by Tani and Seiny who took us up to our accommodation amongst the trees. It wasn’t as nice as Heilala which we expected because it was $118 TOP cheaper per night but it was all we needed really. Having our own bathroom was a bonus and although it was a little damp and shower was cold most of the time, it was a fun adventure.

We unpacked and spent the afternoon looking for a supermarket (but everything was closed because it was the agricultural day) so we ate some sandwiches which Seiny kindly prepared and went for a walk to the beach.  We collected a couple of shells and did some rock pooling. In the evening we ate some dinner, played some cards and watched a movie.

Then the rain came. And it didn’t stop for four days. FOUR DAYS!! But we didn’t know that it would rain for that long at the time so we remained reasonably optimistic…

We filled our days with cards, eating, reading, watching movies and filming. Filming the rain. And how much we were sick of the rain. And WHEN WAS IT GOING TO STOP?!!! Everything was damp. Our once dry clothes were damp, the towels were damp, our bed was damp. The air was just damp and it was really dampening our spirits!

We did manage to do some whale watching although it was very cold, windy and rainy. A few of our fellow whale watchers got quite sea sick and had some impressive vomits over the side of the boat. We saw the whales from a distance but each time we got in the water they were too far in the distance. It was disappointing but we kept trying! In the end, we all got too cold and decided to call it a day. Seiny had made some delicious mahi mahi soup so we had a shower, got dry and went and sat in the dining area and ate soup and bread.

That night we noticed that one of the pet dogs Pata hadn’t been around, so we asked Seiny where he was. She said he’s been out trekking with some other tourists and had been hit by a car. The tourists carried him as far as they could but Pata got too distressed and when they put him down, he bolted into the bush. Everyone thought that he was not going to come back (that he would die from his injuries) but I had hope that he would return.

Our resident pooch Pata
Our resident pooch Pata

This repeated the next day, so we were feeling a little defeated and all we wanted was for the rain to stop and to swim with the whales. So we went for one last whale swim on our last (finally the sun came out) day on Eua and had the most amazing experience to date. The whales were like nothing I have ever seen before. The feeling I got when I saw them under the water was a mixture of astonishment, awe and just pure disbelief! We were in the water, the bluest water I have ever seen with Humpback whales; sometimes 4 at a time. Our spirits instantly lifted and we were stoked to be going diving in the afternoon.

I couldn’t hear them at the time, but on our film you can hear the whales communicating with each other which is pretty special. The dive was neat, although both Callum and I had issues equalising so had to stay at around 10m. There was every sort of coral you could imagine, thousands of fish and even some giant clams. I got stung by a jellyfish on my leg which stung like mad but the welts went down after a shower and the application of some topical ointment. The end to our day was made even better when Pata returned! He was cold, wet and dehydrated but in good spirits. His back left leg was completely out of action so he had a bad limp but was getting around ok and back out on the road the following morning! There aren’t vets on Eua (and we don’t know if there are any on Tongtapu either) so he was left to heal on his own.

Our day was topped off by some delicious homemade pizzas and a coke, which went down an absolute treat. We settled our bill, packed all our (damp) gear up and enjoyed our last evening in the tree hut. There was some serious wildlife that night and it sent my mind a little crazy I think. I could hear a cat screaming at something, a pig? Another cat? Who knows!? And I was telling Callum that I hoped it wasn’t Mr Squish (who is our cat at home) fighting with a tom cat. I woke up and he was like, did you hear that cat? And I said “Yeah, we just talked about it!!!” and he said no we didn’t… you just woke up! It was a crazy mix of real life (noise) and dreaming (the conversation) but very funny at the time! I thought it must be a sign that it was time to go to a different island!

One other thing about Eua was their amazing care for Turtles. Green Turtles and Hawks Bill Turtles are both endangered but still traditionally eaten in Tongan culture. Sadly, this means there are some dirty tactics surrounding the ‘Turtle Trade.’

The way it works is any turtles that are caught are supposed to be tagged and released from the main island (Tongatapu). Fishermen will catch them and bring them in to sell at the market but ultimately hope that tourists or locals will buy them and get them tagged and released; saved from the dinner plate. This means that Fishermen are being rewarded for bringing the turtles in, when in fact they should be punished or fined. Apparently anyone caught with a tagged turtle is charged a hefty fee however the whole system seems flawed. Anyway… whilst on Eua we saw two turtles (saved from the agricultural market) sent back to Tongatapu for tagging and one was caught but was unable to be sent back to the main island so it was held captive by some staff members at Ovava Tree Lodge for about 3 days. They padlocked a string to its shell and let it swim about in the water by the jetty or while we were out diving but evidently the ferry didn’t come back for over a week so it was released, as it would have been starving.

These turtles were saved from the market and waiting to be sent back to the main island for tag and release.
These turtles were saved from the market and waiting to be sent back to the main island for tag and release.

Although their methods were questionable it was nice to be in the company of locals who cared and made the effort to save the Turtles. I hope that one day I can return to Tonga to help with Turtle conservation. Maybe I’ll start a crowdfunding page…

So that was Eua in a nutshell. A truly life changing trip for me and I’d highly recommend a visit if you are looking for an authentic island experience.

We’d love for you to watch our second video on YouTube and give it a like!

Much Love,



Continue Reading


Top 5 reasons you should add Tonga to your travel ‘wish list’

  1. Whether you like the ocean or not, Whale Swimming is an absolute must do in Tonga. Hearing the whales sing and communicate with each other is mesmerizing and also very eerie. We were out in the deepest blue water and there was nothing else around, just us and the whales. It’ll cost you $200-$450 depending on who you go with (I’d recommend Deep Blue Diving) but if you add it into your travel budget you’ll have no regrets. Deep Blue Diving operate off Tongatapu and Eua, so easy to access and the cheapest to go with.
  1. The people are amazing. They never hesitate to help you, and you never feel in danger. This was important for us, as it was our first overseas trip together to a place neither of us had been before which was a little daunting. We went on an Island Tour with Vei and he was so friendly, caring and professional. At the market, we asked lots of questions (feeling a little lost with all the different types of bananas) and the people working the stalls asked us where we were from and helped us find the good stuff!
  1. The snorkelling and diving is a real treat. We were lucky enough to stay on the western side of the island right at the top so we could walk off the beach and into a magical world of coral, urchins, starfish and hundreds of different types of fish. If you get the chance to snorkel off Fafa Island (ask to stay in the Huni Fale as it is the best beach to snorkel off) you’ll see huge Giant Clams, clown fish and their anemones and so many species of fish. If you make it to Eua, go for a reef dive. It isn’t too deep (18m) and the coral is pristine. You’ll even hear the whales singing!
  1. There is an abundance of activities and places to visit in Tonga. I enjoyed going into Nuku’alofa and wandering around the streets looking for t-shirts, food and souvenirs. Head to Friend’s café and the craft store next door, and don’t miss the Talamahu market. Downstairs is all the fruit and vegetables and there is a huge array of jewellery, clothing, tapa and carvings on display for you to purchase. Go upstairs if you want to find a snazzy t-shirt!
  1. It is super easy to get around. Grab a bicycle or a scooter from your resort or lodge and go exploring. You can rent a car (although it’s about $60 TOP for a Tongan Driver License) or hop on the bus for $2. We utilised the bikes, free shuttles from our lodge and caught the bus home from town which was good fun. There is a Ferry to Eua most days of the week and speed boats to Fafa and other islands that are close by. Taxis are available but the ones we saw were in very bad shape so if you plan to do a lot of driving, grab a map and a rental car.

I hope this livens up your travel bug and gets you online booking some tickets for next year’s whale season!

Much love,

Callum and Steph Heilala


Continue Reading


“So how was your trip?” “Where did you go again” “How much did it cost” were all common questions we returned to after spending 15 days in Tonga.

Reflecting on how I felt when I got home, I realised our trip was similar to that of an ocean tide: some parts of the day had us on a high, other times we felt quite low. It was refreshing: the feeling of being outside our comfort zone and embracing all that surrounded us.

We booked our flights and accommodation at least 6 months in advance as peak season is between June and October. We flew on Air New Zealand from Auckland, but you can fly direct from Fiji or Australia via Fiji Airways or Virgin Australia.

We landed in the rain at Fua’amotu International Airport, cleared customs and biosecurity and fledged into the Kingdom of Tonga. Greeted by lovely Liu from Heilala Holiday Lodge, we boarded the free shuttle (it’s free if you stay with Heilala for 3 or more consecutive nights) and drove all the way to the western side of the island. It took about 45 minutes and by the time we arrived we had felt every sort of emotion; elation, concern, sadness, anticipation and most of all, uncertainty. Callum was quite distressed about the amount of rubbish, and I the malnourished animals. We simply had to let water slide off the ducks back and try to understand that their way of living is very different to ours.

Heilala was truly astonishing and oh so quiet. It was bliss.  We were offered a free city orientation which we gladly accepted and after a peaceful night in our Superior Fale ($198 TOP per night) and a complimentary breakfast of toast, fruit and tea we ventured into Nuku’alofa with Liu and one of our hosts Carolina.

The most valuable part of the orientation was getting our bearings for where we were in comparison to everything else! We went to Talamahu Market and bought some bananas, papaya, tomatoes and cucumber and visited the craft stalls too. It was spectacular and definitely worth a visit. They don’t have eftpos so cash is a must have. The iSite was close, on Vuna Road so we headed there to attempt to book a ferry to Eua and a flight from Eua back to Nuku’alofa which we had scheduled for other parts of our trip. We ended up only booking our Ferry but the flight was easy enough to book online. We spent some time in town and got some food at the Friends Café (the best café in town) and walked down to the bus stop.

Catching a bus was easier than I thought, we jumped on the Hi’Hifo bus and it took us all the way back to Heilala. I listened and watched what other people were doing in relation to getting off the bus as there weren’t any ‘stop the bus’ buttons! People just yelled for the driver to stop and he pulled over. Pay the driver on the way out ($2 each) and that’s it! I managed to catch the drivers eye in his rear view mirror, so I signalled him and he stopped for us. Forty minutes on a bus for $2, it doesn’t get much cheaper.

We spent the next couple of days snorkelling the beautiful reef and visited Liku’alofa for a cultural show where we ate all sorts of local cuisine and they did an array of dancing. Members in the audience would get up and place money on the oiled up dancers which initially, we thought was quite unusual (as in our culture we associate money and dancing with strippers). However apparently it is a long time tradition that tapa cloth was given to the dancers but over the years it has been more practical to give money as a token of appreciation. It was a really great night (although long) and well worth it for $35 TOP each.

We’d asked Heilala if we could be a part of the island tour which they happily organised for us. We were picked up by the lovely Vei on Thursday morning and we ventured all over the island visiting the ‘tourist sites.’ The blowholes were spectacular and definitely worth the visit, you might even see some whales swimming in the beautiful sapphire blue water. The natural land bridge was also very pretty, especially the view of Tonga’s rugged coastline. It was neat stopping on the side of the road and looking high up into the trees at the Flying Foxes. We visited the Anahulu caves and went for a much needed swim! After cooling off, we hopped back into the van and drove for an hour across the island back to Heilala.

Unfortunately, about half way through the tour, before we arrived at the caves I started to feel very unwell. I initially thought I was suffering from motion sickness as the roads are very bumpy and I was sitting at the back of the van. I soon found out that it was a little more serious and my hands went so numb I couldn’t use them. We stopped a few times on the way back to our lodge so I could vomit, and as time went on I found it harder and harder to stay on my feet. I vomited in the van, all over myself and out the window. It was classy stuff.

We arrived back at Heilala and I walked and crawled back to our Fale. I spent the next 6 hours or so vomiting and pooping (sometimes at the same time) and at midnight I was able to settle into bed and get a few hours of sleep. Poor Callum had to clean vomit off my clothes, wash the towels, and scrub the toilet… oh and drink all our alcohol!

Looking back on that day we laugh hysterically about the things we had to endure (I literally almost shat myself on the side of the road) however at the time it was really, really miserable. It took me about three days to come right but thankfully Callum had sourced some anti-nausea pills, immodium (for diarrhoea) and some antibiotics from his doctor in NZ which helped a lot.

Our last few days on Tongatapu were spent resting, recovering and relaxing. Callum did a lot of snorkelling and reading in the hammock. We packed our bags, watched the sunset on the beach and went to bed early as we had our trip on the ferry over to Eua Island the next day.

Our stay at Heilala cost $1004.50 which included a kayak hire, a few drinks, a superior fale for 5 nights and shuttles. We guessed we’d need about $1000 per week, so it fit perfectly into our budget.

Saturday morning rolled around and we were picked up by our Tour guide Vei (who seconds as a shuttle driver) and when he saw me he said “Are you ok now princess?” and I replied with “Yes, I am much better Vei… and sorry for vomiting in your van” to which we both laughed. It was a lovely day but very hot in the sun so when we arrived at the ferry terminal we found a shady spot and waited for about an hour to board the ferry. We then waited another 30 minutes before setting sail.

The two-and-a-half-hour trip to Eua was stunning, the day was calm and the ocean was a mesmerizing blue. Whales breached and played in the distance, as well as surfacing close to the boat. We felt very lucky to be in Tonga, with the most amazing wildlife around us.

I was still feeling a bit queasy after my bout of illness but I managed to keep it together for the length of the ferry ride. We docked in Eua and proceeded to get our bags, trundle over the road to the Ovava tree lodge and sat in the beautiful outdoor dining area awaiting check-in. Bliss!

Watch and ‘like’ our short film on youtube and follow us on our journey to Eua and Fafa Island.


Continue Reading